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grim-one




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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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theory wrote:
Battle At F-Stop Ridge

That's awesome. They need to get this guy and his 6 foot camera in there though



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vizzini111




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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Hi all, I need some advice

I'm really keen on buying a Sigma 120-400mm APO HSM lens

1 has come up on eBay for a price im very happy to pay but its the Non OS version of the lens, my question is does it make much difference or make it alot harder to use seeing as im using a Pentax Kx (soon to upgrade to K5) which has Shake reduction built into the body?

**edit - I should also add that im not a big fan of using a tripod, thats kind of the reason why i chose this lens, i read in alot of places of the lenses that are over 300mm this is the easiest/lightest to hand hold (but again that was all for the OS version) i couldn't find anything about the Non OS
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Finally upgrading the old "hand me down" EX420 Flash light and moving on to a Nissen Di866.. Can't wait!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I'm looking at the Nikon DSLR D3100 14.2 mega pix, but I'm not sure that it is worth it or if it is any good, its being sold at Big W so I'm a bit not sure. any advice???
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XSive




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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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grim-one wrote:
theory wrote:
Battle At F-Stop Ridge

That's awesome. They need to get this guy and his 6 foot camera in there though




I just love the fact that there's a bottle of Jim beam there HAHAHAHAHA
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grim-one




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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I'm looking to buy a flash for my macro lens (I'm thinking this one in particular) but stock seems hard to come by.

Currently considering importing from the US from either adorama or B&H as the price (US$800 + $60 postage)is considerably better than most AU stores and importers.

Anyone care to suggest a few good camera gear stores I should be looking at?
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Locally I'd wait, apparantly Canon will be dropping prices on heaps of their stuff in August due to the high Aussie dollar.
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Shadow Wave




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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Locally I'd wait, apparantly Canon will be dropping prices on heaps of their stuff in August due to the high Aussie dollar.
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Zhou




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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Hey kids,

Wheres the best place to sell camera gear?

Wanting to sell my Olympus epl-1 twin lens kit. Made an ad on gumtree and put out a message on facebook with a link to my flikr with the pictures on it. Where else?
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Zhou wrote:
Hey kids,

Wheres the best place to sell camera gear?

Wanting to sell my Olympus epl-1 twin lens kit. Made an ad on gumtree and put out a message on facebook with a link to my flikr with the pictures on it. Where else?


If you're not keen on using eBay.com.au, you can try cameramarket.com.au
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InvivnI




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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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grim-one
I thought I'd share the results of a little experiment we did for my photography elective at uni:

We had to take photos of three sheets of paper, one grey, one black and one white, to test the limitations of the reflected metering system of our cameras (in my case, a Nikon D5000, but the meter is similar to that found in all DSLRs).

Below is a picture of the grey piece of paper shot using a 200mm lens in the aperture priority mode at F/5.6:



It's important to note that I was using aperture priority mode, as this means the camera was relying on its meter to automatically adjust the shutter speed so the image is exposed "correctly".

Here's where it gets interesting, below are the white and the black sheets of paper, taken in exactly the same conditions with the same automatic setting in aperture priority mode:




Apart from a bit of a colour tint (which I'll attribute to the fact that I left the white balance on Automatic), they're pretty much identical to each other and to the original grey image. In both these cases the meter read the image as being exposed correctly, yet clearly it's not.

To correctly expose the white sheet, I had to adjust the exposure compensation two stops up:


To correctly expose the black sheet, I had to adjust the exposure compensation two stops down:


Why?
It's because the meter on your camera will always try to adjust the exposure so the "average" colour of the image is what's called 18% grey. That's pretty much the grey colour you saw with the first three images.

This is fine if your image has the standard mix of light and dark throughout, but if it's brighter than usual - or darker - then the meter won't be exposing your images properly. It will overexpose dark pictures and underexpose bright ones.

This is most apparent in photos at places like the snow, where your camera will have a tendancy to underexpose everything in order to achieve 18% grey. So, rather counterintuatively, you should up the exposure by a stop or two when you're shooting at the snow.
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grim-one




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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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^ This is what people use grey cards for right? Get a meter reading on the card in the same light as the subject - then swap over to manual mode with those same settings.

Isn't RAW shooting able to cope with the over/under easily? I've found photos that are completely dark in the preview screen are salvageable once I copy them to the PC. Not sure if that goes for everything, but it's worked well for me.

Got my twin macro light, look forward to brighter and sharper macro pics from me soon =)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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grim-one wrote:
^ This is what people use grey cards for right? Get a meter reading on the card in the same light as the subject - then swap over to manual mode with those same settings.

I imagine you'd be right.

Quote:

Isn't RAW shooting able to cope with the over/under easily? I've found photos that are completely dark in the preview screen are salvageable once I copy them to the PC. Not sure if that goes for everything, but it's worked well for me.


It'd be better to get the exposure as close as you can to "right" in the first place I reckon. Manipulating the photo can introduce noise and you'll never be able to properly salvage overexposed areas as the information simply wouldn't be there.
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grim-one




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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Quote:

Isn't RAW shooting able to cope with the over/under easily? I've found photos that are completely dark in the preview screen are salvageable once I copy them to the PC. Not sure if that goes for everything, but it's worked well for me.


It'd be better to get the exposure as close as you can to "right" in the first place I reckon. Manipulating the photo can introduce noise and you'll never be able to properly salvage overexposed areas as the information simply wouldn't be there.

Fair enough. I often underexpose photos so that I can get a faster shutter speed on hand held shots. If it's a choice between noise and hand-shakes I'll take the noise =)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Hey guys, does anyone know much about the video side of their cameras?

When the 5D Mark 3 comes out (Hurry up canon!) I'm planning to try and get right into making some sweet videos in addition to photos obviously.

Was wondering if anyone knows what gear I would need to be making videos as killer as this one?

Tony Husted's Holden Commodore SSV from Speedline Film Werks on Vimeo.


http://vimeo.com/27563218

I know a steadicam will be a must, but outside of that im not very sure about video stuff at all.

Anyone know much about it?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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grim-one


An inspiring video that really helped me get over what everyone else says. Sure, constructive criticism is great, because spammage of your friends and family going YOU ARE LE AWESOME isnt really helping you get better. But at the same time its important to do your own thing as well.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Shadow Wave wrote:


I know a steadicam will be a must, but outside of that im not very sure about video stuff at all.

Anyone know much about it?


Good audio recording stuff. Half the battle of making a good video is remembering that sound is just as important as vision.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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InvivnI
Or just ignore the soundtrack and put it to music icon_wink.gif

Laughing to myself that the American has bought a Chevvy and converted it to Holden, when I know people here do the reverse.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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yeah I think getting a decent microphone is pretty easy, what I'd really like to know is how they get those ultra smooth panning shots, surely thats not from a handheld steadicam. And also those crazy angles whilst driving... I thought it could be a rig shot but the cars going rather fast...
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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vizzini111
Thought I'd show how much of an impact a circular polarizer can have on a shot.

Here's a shot with the polarizer turned to the "wrong" position, ie, it's doing nothing:



Here's what happens when we turn the polarizer so it absorbs most of the light reflecting off the surface of the water and rocks:



These two shots were taken within seconds of each other at F/2.0 using the aperture priority mode of the camera. The shutter speed fell from 1/1000 from the first shot to 1/800 for the second.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JB Hi Fi are now doing online only grey imports. Some good prices!

http://www.jbhifi.com.au/direct-import/
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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JB's import prices are on par with the other importers I've used. I think I'll be using JB in the future =)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Is it a bad idea to import a Canon Lens through ebay from Hong Kong?
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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I don't know about the eBay bit but lenses from Hong Kong should have international warranty IIRC.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Got a few new bit for my kit today, pretty happy!

- Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II lens.

- Circle polariser filter (for my two kit lenses).

- Ordered a reverse mounting ring for my 50mm lens ($3.50 worth, a great price for a fun little experiment).

The lens is amazing, so fast and it takes such nice shots. It's really a pleasure to use. Didn't get a whole lot of play with the polariser today, but it looks like it's a heap of fun too. icon_smile.gif
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